Hvar & Trogir
We thought our ferry days were over, but here we are again, island hopping! We couldn’t visit Croatia without checking out at least one island, so Hvar is it.
Brač and Vis both come recommended and we would have liked to visit these, however, taking a car proved difficult as it seemed we couldn’t go direct from one island to the next, as we always needed to go back to the mainland. Oh well, there is always next year!
We take the ferry from Drvenik (mainland) to Sucuraj (Hvar) on the eastern tip of the island and we drive up the spine. There are a few spots along the way, but we have decided to base our selves in, or near, the main town, also called Hvar.
This town is renowned for being a party town. On first sight, that’s exactly what it looks like. There isn’t much of a beach and what there is, is crowded, mostly with 20 somethings snoozing off the night before.
About 5km back down the road we had passed Milna and we decide to go back for a closer look. We instantly like it; it’s a quiet little beach spot with a few restaurants. Just the place to relax for a couple of days.
Moli Onte apartments are above the family run restaurant. Mum, Dobrilla, makes us immediately feel at home with her family. She also has relatives in Nunawadding (Victoria) and can proudly tell us, the postcode is 3131! Its a clean and basic set-up – Bedroom with own bathroom (of course) and much appreciated air-conditioning. We also have use of a shared kitchen. Our room opens onto a large balcony with wonderful views over the water.
Of course, we dine at Moli Onte and the fresh seafood is superb. You know its fresh, because you can watch it swim around just before you eat it! We start chatting to the table next to us: Mitch and Mike, a father and son from Sandringham – the world is a small place.
Our original plan to stay three nights stretched from four and then to five. I am still surprised that we can so easily fill in our days on the beach reading books, swimming and the occasional nap!
Hvar town was also a surprisingly a gorgeous town, one of the nicest we have been to. We ignore the doof doof sounds pounding out of the bars (even in the early afternoon) and step into the cobblestone back streets, where we discover a well preserved old town oozing with wine bars, restaurant and chic boutiques. We stumbled across Hedonist Wine and Tapas bar. We have a glass and a nibble and are convinced we need to come back, so we do. The tapas lunch, which includes 5 choices each and two glasses of wine, was well worth the trip.
The return ferry is from Stari Grad, Hvar to Split, perhaps we didn’t do the city justice, but our first impressions told us not to stay long. The main feature of the town is the Diocletian Palace. This is not a palace in regular terms, more an old town. It’s marble streets and imposing Roman ruins are well worth the stop (I’m starting to sound like a Michelin Guide; yes, I’d give it ☆☆☆). We have lunch and walk around, then keep on going up the coast.
Settled in the 7th Century, its a medieval town (of course, it has a wall around it). The town is built on a small islet nestled between Ciovo Island and the mainland, a bridge adjoins the three. The port side promenade is lined with bars and cafes so you can sit and admire the luxury yachts moored alongside.
The seaside resorts on Ciovo are crowded. Croatia is becoming a more popular tourist destination, particularly with Italians and Slovenians, not to forget the Germans who are prolific travelers and big naturist (so I am told).
We spend two nights here, exploring the medieval town and cooling off in the channel between the island and mainland.